Holy Land pilgrimage 2023
Part 1/2, Part 2/2
February 21
Jerusalem, from Mt. Of Olives into the Holy City
We began our day walking from the Mt. Of Olives down the Kidron Valley, and into the holy city. Along the way, we stopped at key moments in the last week of Jesus’ life.
Our first stop down into the valley was a remembrance of the tears that Jesus wept as he overlooked the city: “Jerusalem, Jerusalem! How often I have longed to gather you as a hen gathers her chicks —but you were not willing!” The church called Dominus Flevit (“the Lord wept”) commemorates this…
At the foot of the Mt. Of Olives, we found our way to the Garden of Gethsemane and the Church of All Nations. There’s an ancient olive grove that confirms the Gospel accounts of Jesus praying there with his disciples on the night he was betrayed…
We stopped in the wonderfully-named “Church of all Nations” near the Garden of Gethsemane. The word “Gethsemene” is an Aramaic word that’s translated “olive press”.
There’s a heartfelt poignancy in this, I think, for somewhere very near here the Son of God presented himself in prayer —just before he was crushed like an olive in a press…
Pools of Bethesda, St. Anne’s Church
We came to St. Anne’s Church, just yards away from the Pools of Bethesda. A French Catholic Church, St. Anne’s, was built between AD 1131-1138. It commemorates the traditional name of Mary’s mother and Jesus’ grandmother, “Anne”.
St. Anne’s is known as a place to sing. The acoustics are live. We sang “Amazing Grace “ and a chorus and a beautiful group from South Korea joined us.
The Via Dolorosa (“Way of Sorrows”) to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
The Via Dolorosa is the traditional processional route in the Old City of Jerusalem that Jesus would have taken, forced by the Roman soldiers, on the way to his crucifixion.
The relatively short route from the “Antonio Fortress” (the Roman military presence, including Pontius Pilate) to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre (a distance of about 2,000 feet) — is a celebrated place of Christian pilgrimage.
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre
This Church was established AD 325 after the mother of Emperor Constantine, Helena, visited the holy land in hopes of finding historic sites.
The ancient and sprawling facility covers what is believed to be the place both of the crucifixion and resurrection.
The church was massively crowded when we visited, making it difficult to see the special places inside.
The Garden Tomb
The Garden tomb is a beautiful place to ponder the death and resurrection of our Lord Jesus.
I remember coming here for the first time in 1969 with my Dad. I was 17 and I found this place much more inspiring than the church site.
Most scholars do not think Jesus was crucified or buried here. Nonetheless, it is a powerful visual that can assist us in catching a glimpse of Jesus, crucified, dead, buried —and alive!
We shared in communion together —and welcomed Miesa, a young woman from Brazil, now living in the UK. She added to the joy of the celebration…
February 20
Jerusalem: Western Wall
We entered Jerusalem through the Dung Gate, one of seven gates into the old city. It’s very close to the Temple Mount and was used to cart refuse from the city.
Our walk into the city took us straight to the Western wall, originally built by Herod the Great as a retaining wall for the much-enlarged temple he was building.
As the only fragment of the Great Temple to survive the Roman destruction in 68 AD, the wall is considered by many to be the most sacred structure in Judaism.
The temple stood on the Temple Mount near to where the Muslim Dome of the Rock stands today.
Bethlehem
Bethlehem (House of Bread) is just five miles from Jerusalem.
We began by stopping outside the city in Shepherds’ fields —still a place where sheep graze and shepherds roam…the natural limestone caves dot the hilly landscape and offer excellent shelter for shepherd and sheep alike —or a family looking for a quiet place to birth a child…!
From Shepherd’s field we gathered at the Chapel of the angels —where the acoustics are so good that our singing made us think Ron Pearson would probably pay us (!) to be in the FPC choir. It was a beautiful few moments of worship…
Holy Family Hospital, Bethlehem
Charles and Zonelle Rainbolt’s son, Michael, is involved in the Order of Malta’s support of Holy Family Hospital in Bethlehem.
These photos come from a visit that included a guided tour of the service rendered to both mothers and babies.
Holy Family Hospital delivers approximately 70 percent of all Bethlehem infants. It is the only hospital in the region medically equipped to deliver babies born before 32 weeks
May the Lord continue to bless each and all who serve here.
February 19
Jerusalem!
We bid farewell to Pilgerhaus and Galilee this morning. But before we did, we went into the Chapel, offered prayers, and lifted our hearts and voices in songs of gratitude. The Lord met us here in joy, tears, and a deep hope. As the hymn-writer puts it: “strength for today —and bright hope for tomorrow!”
We boarded the bus, bound for Jerusalem!
Jerusalem
It’s a two and a half hour drive to Jerusalem from Galilee —about 70 miles as the crow flies. From the north you enter a tunnel on the outskirts of the city and when you come out —the city unfolds before you. I had asked Ran, our guide, to play Stephen Adams’ “The Holy City” sung by the Three Tenors as we entered the tunnel. There’s no better way.
The anthem begins with the joy of little children singing, then moves to a deepening darkness, and concludes in hope and joy!
Listen to the “The Holy City”
(Push down on the link and hold (and then press “open link”) to hear the anthem.
We drove immediately to the top of the Mt. of Olives and sat there for the better part of an hour, simply drinking in the sight of the old city of Jerusalem. Ran offered a brilliant description of where crucial events of Jesus’ life played out —especially his last seven days…
Guess who was the first on a camel…?
We drove down to the earliest part of Jerusalem, called the “City of David” —where King David established the city and built his royal residence 3,000 years ago. it is situated just south of where Solomon would build the temple —as you can see below.
The excavations of David’s City are both amazing and ongoing. Part of our tour included Hezekiah’s tunnel, named for King Hezekiah who initiated its construction some 700 years before Jesus was born. It’s an underground, chiseled-out-of-hard-rock waterway, 1,750 feet long, designed to protect Jerusalem’s water against the Assyrian invaders…
February 18
Our guest house for the first week of our pilgrimage has been the Pilgerhaus (Pilgrim House), a German retreat Center, a thirty minute walk from Capernaum —and about 40 yards from the Sea of Galilee…
Many will say that the spiritual highlight of our pilgrimage happened right here while we shared early-morning communion on the edge of the Sea.
Morning Communion at Pilgerhaus
Dr. John Frame, whose son, John, died just two weeks ago, led us into worship by offering the homily …
I cannot do justice either to his words —or the impact of them on each of us. What I can do is simply give thanks for a comforting and hope-filled word —and a most holy entree into worship.
John is not alone in his grief. Others on our journey together have suffered loss recently. John’s witness bridged the hearts of many and anchored us in the hope of the gospel. The Spirit was clearly at work among us.
Caesarea Philippi
After our service at the lakeside, we left for Caesarea Philippi, the site of one the most important conversations Jesus ever had with his disciples.
Caesarea Philippi sits high in the Golan Heights, near the Syrian border. As we travelled, we were blessed with clear views of snow-capped Mt. Herman, a 9,500 foot high mountain bordering Israel, Syria and Lebanon.
Jesus took his disciples on retreat —to Caesarea Philippi, some thirty miles (!) north from Capernaum. He was keen to engage them on the singular issue driving His entire rescue operation: “Do you know who I am —and what I’m here to do?”
Jesus chooses to ask the question directly, and does so in a pagan, Gentile city. The cliffs of Caesarea Philippi are filled with shrines dedicated to Roman and Greek idols. “What are people saying about me?” He asks. And then He makes it personnel: “What about you? Who do you think I am?
February 17
Cana of Galilee
We began this blue-sky day in Galilee by driving about 15 miles (from the Pilgerhaus) to Cana —where, according to John’s gospel, Jesus brought joy to those at a wedding, by turning water into wine.
In Cana, we stopped at the Franciscan Wedding Chapel and celebrated Terry and Elaine Buxton’s reaffirmation of wedding vows.
Nazareth
From Cana we drove about 5 miles to Nazareth, the small town where Jesus grew up. We explored “Nazareth Village” —a place designed to give a sense of what life was like in Jesus’ day.
We went on to visit the Basilica of the Annunciation in the Center of Nazareth, commemorating Gabriel’s announcement to Mary that she would conceive and bear a son. Mary’s exemplary response humbles all of us: “I am a handmaiden of the Lord; let it be to me according to your word.”
The church stands on the site believed to be Mary’s childhood home…
The Precipice (Cliff) of Nazareth
The geography of the Bible stands as yet another quiet witness to its credibility. Luke’s gospel says the religious leaders were so inflamed at what Jesus said in the synagogue, that they “mobbed him and forced him to the edge of a cliff on which the town was built.” Luke 4:29
The fact that Nazareth sits near a precipice is a little piece of evidence that the gospel-author knew the terrain.
February 16
This morning we began our day on the Sea of Galilee —literally … We were met at the dock by a boat named, “Moses” and it’s remarkable crew. A song by “Casting Crowns” welcomed us aboard …
This is always a highlight. It’s an “archeological ‘A’ site —that is, there’s no doubt but that Jesus plied these waters, very close to where we are.
We listened to gospel accounts of Jesus being on the Sea —and then the crew cut the engines and we just sat in the silence, mindful and attentive to the Lord’s presence.
Then came the dancing! A circle of Presbyterians within a circle of Presbyterians —dancing and singing with abandon…Ha-va Nagila! A glad-hearted traditional folk song, that is translated, “Let us rejoice!”
Let us rejoice, let us rejoice
Let us rejoice and be glad
Let us rejoice, let us rejoice
Let us rejoice and be glad
Let us sing, let us sing
Let us sing and be glad
Awaken, awaken brethren
Awaken brethren with a cheerful heart.
And we did!
The Jesus Boat Museum
After disembarking, we entered a cleverly presented Museum focused on the discovery (in 1986) of an ancient fishing boat from the 1st century AD, sometimes called The Jesus Boat.
Capernaum
When Jesus left his hometown of Nazareth to begin his public ministry, he went north to a town called Capernaum on the northwest shore of the Sea of Galilee. He lived there, probably in the home of Simon Peter’s mother-in-law, for three years or so.
To enter the ruins of Capernaum, as we did today, is to step back into the region where most of Jesus’ miracles took place.
Read the first five chapters of Mark’s Gospel and you’ll encounter story after story of Jesus’ power—followed by this repeated question from many listeners: “Who is this?”…
This, indeed, seems to be the primary purpose of the Gospels themselves —to lead folks like us to a place where we can answer that question —the most important question that we will ever ask, or answer: “Who is this Jesus —and how should we respond to Him?”
Yardinet, the River Jordan, Reaffirmation of Baptism
Our final stop of the day took us to the River Jordan, where we gathered to reaffirm the blessing that comes to us through baptism …
February 15
Mt. Arbel
We began by traveling to Mt. Arbel, the most distinguishing feature of the landscape around the Western shore of Lake Galilee. The cliffs of Arbel are famous in Jewish history, especially during the early reign of King Herod (37 – 4 BC). He sought to curry favor with the Romans by leading an assault upon his fellow Jews who were rebelling against Roman occupation.
There is good reason to believe that the resurrected Jesus delivered His great commission from the top of Arbel. Matthew’s gospel ends with this:
Then the eleven disciples left for Galilee, going to the mountain where Jesus told them to go … He said to them, “All authority, in heaven and on earth, has been given to me … Go, therefore, and make disciples of all nations … ”
Magdala
A most remarkable discovery happened here in 2009. I remember meeting the Director of the archeological dig —who described the project.
The foundation of a new hotel was being prepared when the construction workers encountered appeared to be ancient artifacts. By Israeli law they had to stop construction and turn it over to the Department of Antiquities. As they excavated they realised that they had unearthed a first-century synagogue in Magdala.
Magdala was Mary Magdalene’s home town. The city is on the route that a devout Jew travelling to Jerusalem from Capernaum would typically follow. We know that Jesus taught and preached in synagogues throughout Galilee. Surely this was one of them.
Duc et Altum
A newly constructed and unique church in Magdala built 30 yards from the ancient synagogue.
The pulpit is built into the fishing boat while the congregation looks onto the Sea of Galilee …
We shared a moving conversation in the “Chapel of the Encounter.” A mural depicts the hand of the hemorrhaging woman who touched the hem of Jesus’ garment …
Church of the Beatitudes
Matthew 5 begins with Jesus’ Sermon on the Mount —and the stunning prelude is known as the Beatitudes, a series of blessings that both surprise and challenge. We heard the Beatitudes recited and then heard them in a contemporary translation …
Church of Peter’s Primacy
This visit closed out another glorious day in Galilee. The church here was built in 1982 —over an atrium and basilica originally built around AD 480.
February 14
Israel College of the Bible, Netanya
Happy Valentine's Day! This was a day to love!
Well, we begin this morning with a delicious Middle Eastern buffet breakfast in Tel Aviv, followed by a short drive up the Mediterranean coast to the Israeli city of Netanya.
Netanya is home to the Israel College of the Bible, the only academically accredited Hebrew-speaking Bible College/Seminary in the world. I have grown to love this community of believers and their unapologetic mission.
On their website (oneforisrael.org) countless testimonies are on offer, first-person stories of Jewish people who have come to believe that Jesus (Yeshua) is the Messiah. Some of us have met Dr. James Tour, a world-renowned chemistry professor from Rice University in Houston. His story is here: https://www.oneforisrael.org/top-testimonies/dr-james-tour-makes-greatest-jewish-discovery/.
The introduction to the purpose of the college continues: ”Israel College of the Bible is a place where you will be challenged to love Jews AND Arabs with God’s passionate love which has been poured out through the Messiah Yeshua.”
We spent almost an hour and a half at the Bible College meeting with Dr. Sheila Gyllenberg and two young assistants --one, Celesty, is an Arab Israeli and the other. Angelique, is a Ukrainian whose father graduated from the same seminary in Kiev that Dr. Ivan Rusyn currently serves as President! --the same Dr. Rusyn who (with his wife, Luda) taught and preached for us in Tulsa just two weeks ago.
Caesarea by-the-Sea
From the Bible College we travelled to what is surely one of the great archeological treasures in the world: The Caesarea (by-the-Sea) National Park.
Our guide, Ran Silberman, speaks about the famous Pontius Pilate stone, a dedicatory stone placed in honor of the Emperor Tiberius --discovered in 1961! This is the only archeological artifact ever discovered that offers extra-biblical evidence for the accuracy of the Bible's narrative about Pontius Pilate.
Caesarea by the Sea (not to be confused with Caesarea Philippi) was built by King Herod the Great (a thoroughly ruthless man but a genius when it comes to architecture).
Herod dedicated the city to the Emperor Augustus -and its' later significance is easily seen in the number of times it appears in the Book of Acts.
By way of example: Phillip came here (Acts 8) --and eventually lived here (Acts 21:8). Simon Peter travelled all the way from Joppa to Caesarea (about 40 miles) in order to meet the Roman Centurion, Cornelius (Acts 10). Gentile Christians in Caesarea later begged Paul not to go back to Jerusalem (Acts 21:12-18). Paul is later imprisoned here and goes before the Roman Governor, Festus.
From Caesarea, it was a short drive to see the massive aqueduct Herod built for the purpose of drawing fresh water into the city.
We captured a good group photo, tested the water, found some sea glass (!) and celebrated the gift of this 65 degree blue-sky day in Israel! And headed for one of the greatest places on earth: the Pilgerhaus, our "Pilgrim House" on the shores of the Sea of Galilee.
February 13
There’s nothing quite like an intentional pilgrimage —particularly to the Holy Land. It’s often called the fifth gospel —a compelling proclamation of via land and narrative, people and archeology.
A group of 26 pilgrims left Tulsa this morning (Sunday, Feb. 12) for a two week visit to Israel and Jordan, arriving in Tel Aviv (via Dallas and Miami) at 3:30 Monday afternoon.
Along the way we met this gentleman, Tim. His shirt prompted my question: “Would you, by any chance, be associated with the production of he Chosen?” “That’s right,” he said. “The largest crowd-funded video series in history —and it’s focused on the presence and redemptive work of Jesus in this world.” Well, he didn’t exactly say that but that was the gist. A great word for a group on our way to walk in the Master’s footsteps.
We arrived in Tel Aviv, went through security quickly (thanks to the help of a guide named Louis) boarded our bus for the Leonardo Gordon Beach Hotel.
Tomorrow, Tuesday, we head to the Israel College of the Bible in Natanya, on the Mediterranean coast, then to Caesarea by the Sea, and on to the Pilgerhaus, a residential monastic setting on the Sea of Galilee.
We have much for which to be thankful!
